Saigon

What Vietnam Could Have Been

After taking it easy for my last couple of days in Hanoi, I was ready to “power trip” again once I got to Ho Chi Minh City. One of the things I learned early on is that many people still call the city Saigon. For ease of typing and pronunciation, I will, too. I arrived at an AirBnB studio apartment overlooking Saigon Central Park at about 3:00 p.m. I had quite a bit of wash to do, so I started that up, then showered and rested as I waited for it to get done. I headed out for some com tam for supper, and walked Bui Vien street before calling it a pretty early evening. I was up early the next morning and had a plan. I mapped out all of the places I could easily walk to, and hit them up the same day. I first walked to the Notre Dame Cathedral. Built by French colonists in the 1860s and 70s, it is a pretty building in the heart of Saigon. Unfortunately, it was being restored when I visited. I could view the cathedral from the sides, but had to rely on historical photos displayed at the site to show the iconic dual towers on the front face. In the same neighborhood stands another 19th century French colonial landmark, the Saigon Central Post Office. The building was constructed in the 1880s and has a lot of the charm of a large public building from days gone by. There are a couple of souvenir shops inside, and several hawkers selling postcards outside, because the building still serves as a functioning post office. I sent off several postcards from there, but was surprised that buying seven international postcard stamps cost more than I spent on all of my meals for the entire day. The stamps cost about what international postage would run from the United States. In contrast to the shockingly low prices of so many other things in Vietnam, it seemed pretty expensive. Imagine paying the same amount for a single stamp as you would for a small meal. While I was in this central area, I stumbled across Book Street. This was a pedestrian only strip of road dedicated only to shops selling books. Not being able to read Vietnamese, I passed on making any purchases there. It was a cool vibe, though, and there was a live performance of some sort underway as I walked through. I had a couple of museums I wanted to visit Tuesday as well, and I knew those would take a bit longer. I visited them not necessarily in order of interest, but in the order that made the most sense in my walking tour. I spent about three hours at the Independence Palace, and two more at the War Remnants Museum, sandwiched around a lunch stop at a cafe where you had to put together a combo meal. This was a little bit complicated for me to navigate in Vietnamese, but I got my food. Independence Palace was originally a mansion built to house the French Colonial Governor and government, prior to Vietnamese Independence. It was later home to the President of the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam), until Vietnam was ultimately lost to the communists in 1975, a couple of years after the United States pulled out of the Vietnam War. Since then, it has served as a museum, sometimes called “Reunification Palace” instead of Independence Palace, though the current communist regime does not seem too hung up on the name. You can read more about the Vietnamese museums I visited on a designated page I will post later, by following the link on the tile, below. The War Remnants Museum houses a collection of American military equipment that had been either captured or left behind from American military participation in Vietnam. The primary purpose of the museum is not to show of American war trophies, however. There is also a segment dedicated to advocating for peace. Neither is this the museum’s primary function. Although the museum’s name has been changed, its original moniker, “The Museum of American War Crimes” better describes the primary purpose of the museum. Once again, to see a deeper discussion of museums and historical presentation in Vietnam, follow that tile below. (Continued)
Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon
The Old 19th Century Post Office
Those Yellow Outfits are Common in Vietnam. They Cover Everything, But are Quite Form-Fitting
Performance on Book Street
Independence Palace
War Remnants Museum
Bin Thanh Market
Most Eateries Have These Little Plastic Kindergarten Chairs and Tables
After all of that walking, and being on my feet the remainder of the day at the museums, I was pretty tired. I arrived back at my room at about 5:00. I showered off and rested before heading out to the Ben Thanh market. You can buy just about anything in the interior portion of the market – or at least poor quality knock-offs of just about anything. I walked around a bit, but wasn’t really shopping. As night falls, the inside part of the market begins to close, and the action moves to the periphery and the food stalls. I wanted to shuffle around and try a few different dishes, so I did that. At my first stall, I was greeted in perfect English by two girls in their late teens. Both were Vietnamese. One lived in Saigon, the other had moved with her family to San Jose, California. They were helpful in recommending different foods and beverages. They were kind but a little hard on my for my manner of eating things and apparently poor pronunciation of Vietnamese phrases. The didn’t like my rendering of, “Khong cam on,” the Vietnamese phrase for “No, thank you,” that I was most proud of learning. They laughed at me a bit, but it was all in good fun. They also poked fun at me for eating rice with chopsticks. Everyone I had seen eating rice in Taiwan used sticks, so I had learned how to do it. They correctly pointed out that it’s much easier to eat with a spoon. “You look like such a foreigner,” my new friend from San Jose chortled. What possible response could I offer to such an utterly true statement? I just laughed with them. Since my supper was fairly late on the 8th, I wandered back to bed later than I usually do. I was nevertheless up early the next morning for my do it yourself bus tour. I had mapped out all of the more distant historic sites in Saigon to see using the city’s municipal bus system. Each bus ride cost only 5,000-6,000 dong ($.19-$.23 U.S.), and all of the attractions I visited on the 9th were free, so it was a very inexpensive day. I began by checking out the Jade Emperor Pagoda. This temple was constructed in the late 19th century by order of a Cantonese merchant. Like many temples in Southeast Asia, it has Buddhist, Taoist, and Confucian elements to it. The journey there took me through other parts of downtown Saigon, and briefly along the river. The temple was next to a more modern Buddhist worship facility. It was fairly small, and did not take long to see. From there, I took another bus to a much older temple. Giac Lam was constructed in 1744, and has served as a Buddhist worship facility ever since. The temple grounds here are much larger than those at the Jade Emperor Pagoda. The site includes a substantial mausoleum for the cremated remains of worshipers. A seven level hexagonal pagoda was added in the twentieth century. I climbed it for enhanced views of the city. It was another nice stop. I next went to yet another old religious building. I took a pair of buses to the Cha Tam church, also known as St. Francis Xavier. The first ever Vietnamese – Chinese priest oversaw the construction of this building around the turn of the century. It is a pretty building, reflecting its French Catholic heritage. The church was also famous at a last refuge of Ngo Dihn Diem and his political advisor. Diem was the first president of the Republic of Vietnam (South Vietnam) after the country was partitioned in the wake of the French defeat at Dien Bien Phu. The Nguyen monarchy had been placed in charge, but Diem had been running the country anyhow before he wrested control from them and essentially installed himself as president. His authoritarian, nepotistic style bordered on dictatorship. He was a notoriously difficult person to deal with. As much as the U.S. government wanted to support a non-communist state in South Vietnam, even our own State Department did not believe they could support Diem long term. Eventually, a coup toppled his regime in 1963. He fled Independence Palace and hid near Cha Tam. Strong Catholics, Diem and his political advisors went to pray at Cha Tam before turning themselves over to the coup party. Their prayers weren’t answered. They were assassinated en route to turning themselves in. The bus from Cha Tam to the Ho Thi Ky Flower Market didn’t really save any time over walking, so I hoofed it over to look at the several streets completely occupied by flower shops. I found it surprising how many street vendors in Vietnam sold flowers. It was more impressive to find an entire neighborhood of flower peddlers. The shops appeared a bit smaller than those in the Kowloon Flower Market, but the number of shops seemed larger in Saigon. I did not buy any flowers, but enjoyed the pretty sites. There was an accompanying food market in Ho Thi Ky, but few of the food vendors opened before 5:00. I managed to find one who offered a limited menu for late lunch. I had a little soup before strolling back to my room at about 3:00. I was able to shower and rest a couple of hours before going back out for the evening. (Continued)
Bui Vien Party Street
Figure Outside the Jade Emperor Pagoda
Jade Emperor Pagoda
On the Grounds at Giac Lam
Giac Lam Pagoda
I walked into a less touristy neighborhood and found a street cart selling xoi for 30,000 dong. The portion was pretty good, and the food was tasty. I found that often, though, the portion size for meals in Vietnam left me wanted a second dish. As I walked back toward my neighborhood, I found a place selling Com Tam for another 35k, and filled my belly the rest of the way. My path back to my room took me through a few of Saigon’s narrow alleys, and eventually through Bui Vien once more. On a couple of occasions, I faced pretty aggressive sales pitches for massages the ending of which I wasn’t sure of, and so practiced my most useful Vietnamese phrase, “Khong, cam on.” In a still more strange occurrence, once I neared my room a Vietnamese woman I guessed to be a bit older than me used Google Translate to ask me if I was traveling alone. I told her I was. She said she alone as well. She acted as if she was just trying to be my friend, and even offered to pay for the soda and candy bar I was buying in the 7-Eleven. I made it clear I already had a family of my own, and that my wife just wasn’t traveling with me at the moment. But then, she asked if we could go to my room and have a little fun. I told her I wasn’t going to be a customer. She responded that she was not a “working girl,” and had a job as a civil servant. She later claimed to own a massage parlor and suggested she could provide me that service. I made a quick exit from the store and put some distance between us. Still she followed after me. I decided I didn’t want her to know where my room was. Since she was still following me, I walked across the street and sat in the park for about an hour. After it had been a good while since I had seen her, I figured it was safe to walk back to my room. It was pretty late then, and I called it a night. I never did figure out what her angle was, and that bothered me. I feel like I can better avoid scams if I understand them. I’m about certain she was working some kind of scam. She wasn’t just looking for a friend, and I don’t think she “wanted my body.” Something just smelled very fishy. I got up the next morning, and ran a “post-40” personal best in the 5k. I stuck what little dirty laundry I had in the machines, since they were available, and made ready to check out. I arranged with the AirBnB owner to stash my bags in the room for a few more hours after I checked out. I strolled by the Saigon River waterfront. I walked through the Ben Thanh Market once more. Ultimately, I headed to the airport a bit early. I was taking the city bus over, and also checking in for an international flight. On the way over, I met a young man from Kuala Lumpur named Aiden. He had spent the last week and a half hitch hiking around Vietnam. He had met a lot of interesting people and been invited home to eat with families a few times. I’m not sure it’s something I would do, but I evny the interactive experiences he got to take part in. He acted interested in visiting Texas one day, so I gave him my WhatsApp contact info. I hope he uses it to stay in touch. It was a good thing I left early to go to the airport. The immigration and security teams leaving Vietnam were extremely slow. The lines were barely moving. Once through, I enjoyed the lounge access afforded by my new found participation in the points and miles scheme. I never thought I would value airport lounges enough to even shell out an extra nickel to use one. That was a huge miscalculation. It has turned out to be one of the most surprisingly beneficial aspects of my use of points and miles. I enjoyed a meal and a comfortable place to sit and wait for boarding time to near. My flight to Bangkok was uneventful. I had cashed in a few points to stay at the Hyatt Regency Suvarnabhumi. I arrived in Bangkok early enough to secure the room and pave the way for Stephanie and Caleb to join me for the Thailand portion of my trip. They arrived at 1:00, and promptly crashed out in the hotel after 24 hours of flights and layovers.
Cha Tam
Flower Market
A Few of the Multitudes of Motorcycles
Saigon Has Lots of These Little Alleys
You Can't Really Walk Down the Sidewalks, Because Everyone Parks on them, Especially Motorbikes
Flesh Peddling on Display at Bui Vien
Views From the Pagoda
The View from my Building Roof in Saigon
Vietnam
Museums